Introduction
Tryfan's North Ridge is the most popular scramble in the Glyderau mountain range, and possibly one of the most worthwhile and best known Grade 1 routes in the UK. The sharp, rocky crest of the ridge leads all the way from the valley to the improbably spiky summit, and despite its daunting appearance from below, it is in fact a fairly easy route with something for everyone.
There are some difficult sections, and certainly a lot of scope for choosing harder lines should you so wish. However almost all of the harder stretches of the ridge can be bypassed with the help of scree paths or gullies. To put things into perspective, in November 2005 I climbed the ridge with a group composed partially of people who had never done any mountain walking in their lives, and all of them survived the experience--and enjoyed it too!
Go straight to:
The Approach
Lower Barrier to the big ledge
The Wall, Far North Peak, and North Peak Gully
Final climb to Central Peak (summit)
Suggested continuations
The Approach
Looking down on the Milestone Buttress carpark, from the first section of the path
There are two possible approaches to the start of the North Ridge scramble, both of which are shown on the map above. The most direct route begins from the layby/car park just below the prominent Milestone Buttress on the West Face of the mountain. Simply follow the steep, well-stepped path up the fellside, beneath the buttress, and along a broad boulder gully. This is a popular route, and on weekends or bank holidays it's a good idea to get there very early before all the parking spaces are used up. There is also parking available at a number of other car parks along the A5, especially the Bochlwyd car park, Idwal Cottage, and the roadside opposite Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite.
Llyn Ogwen and the A5 from a little further up
The second approach begins at Gwern Gof Uchaf, and heads up to Tryfan Bach (this popular climbing venue is aptly named as Little Tryfan) before turning right and reaching the initial broad section of the ridge via a shattered gully. The path comes out somewhere between the start of the Heather Terrace and the initial section of scrambling, which I call the Lower Barrier. This is a longer but gentler--and far quieter!--approach than the route from Milestone Buttress.
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Lower Barrier to the big ledge
One of the initial scrambly bits
The path begins to lose definitition as it reaches the top of the wide gully, and numerous smaller tracks sprout away from the main route and wander up the fellside towards open rock. At this stage there are literally dozens of alternative lines you could take, and it is often said that you'll never take the same line twice. I've only climbed the ridge twice so far, but until now this is certainly true!
Your initial line will depend on conditions, the experience of group members, and how adventurous you're feeling. There are a number of very easy routes in this first part of the ridge which feature only a few scrambling moves, and these lines will be suitable for almost everyone: however these routes may take some effort to find. There are several well-polished, prominent gullies which offer challenges slightly more deserving of a Grade 1 qualification and these are probably the best routes to start off your climb if everyone feels comfortable with them.
Looking up at the main section of the ridge: the peaks of Tryfan
Continue scrambling up the broad shoulder of the mountain, taking whatever lines you fancy. At this stage the majority of the rock is intersperced by sections of easy walking on grass and biberry, but as you climb the vegetation will retreat and rock becomes more prominent.
One particular line leads to a shadowed wall of crag, identified by a curious quartz platform and a large cairn. Look for the Cannon Stone nearby: this extraordinary slab of rock, protruding from the mountainside at an angle, is an impressive sight and a classic photo location.
The Cannon Stone
Break through this section of crag by following a rib up the face (or bypass it entirely if you prefer), then continue up steepening, rough ground towards a large, flat platform below a prominent nose of rock. At this point the character of the climb changes, and this ledge is commonly used as a resting-place to wait for others to climb the wall ahead.
Scrambling above the Cannon
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The Wall, Far North Peak, and North Peak Gully
Looking up at the Wall and the peaks of Tryfan from the ledge
The Wall may look daunting, but it is in fact surprisingly easy. The gradient is gentler than it looks and the blocky face is well furnished with holds and very secure, despite the polished rock. It is however not difficult to accidentally venture onto far more technical terrain: for this reason it's best to stick to the crest and avoid the steeper rock further to the right.
The climb culmunates at the minor summit of the Far North Peak, a craggy outcrop which makes a good place to wait for the inevitable queues up ahead to disperse. Next, drop down into a deep cleft known as the Notch. This is actually a little tricky and involves an exposed ledge traverse and the crossing of a boulder bridge. Escape the Notch to the right by climbing a narrow chimney that slants up the wall of crag.
It's possible to avoid the Wall entirely by traversing left and ascending a chossy, loose gully, which emerges in the Notch, thus bypassing the Far North Peak entirely. Despite the fact that the gully contains loose material, this is a better route for inexperienced parties to take: the less confident may find that short section of downclimbing troublesome.
Looking back at the Far North Peak from the far side of the Notch
North Peak ahead. The gully is to the right of the ridge.
Next, trend to the right and ascend a steep gully. This has been described by some as the technical crux of the route (ie. the most difficult point), but despite one or two awkward moves it isn't hard and in my opinion doesn't exceed Grade I. It's important to note that opinions on route grading may vary considerably: depending on the experience and fitness of the climber, the North Ridge may seem like an easy Grade I or a borderline Grade I/II case.
North Peak Gully emerges near the northern buttress of the mountain (the North Peak). This is an excellent viewpoint, being almost as high as the summit itself.
View from North Peak
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Final climb to Central Peak (summit)
From the North Peak, the summit buttress is visible on the far side of a West Face gully. The majority of the climb is now over, and if you've had a good time there's a real sense of "Can we do it again?" at this point.
Summit! Note the seagull.
There are two routes to the Central Peak. The first--and standard--line follows an easy-angled boulder rake up a break in the crag, and has a rudimentary path of sorts. The second line, which may be taken by the adventurous and confident, follows a number of wide cracks up a steep wall directly beneath the summit. Some of the individual sections of this line qualify as Grade II, but since the route is broken up by a number of easy rock ledges and chimneys, it has an unthreatening character.
The summit, when you reach it, is a remarkable place: airy, barren, and surmounted by the twin blocks of Adam and Eve. The view is stupendous in all directions, enhanced by the enormous vertical drops on all sides. But, except in bad weather, this is not a quiet place. On both occasions that I've climbed Tryfan the summit has been crawling with scramblers, climbers, and the occasional hillwalker who's come up the South Ridge.
Give yourself a pat on the back and take a rest--you've deserved both! Tryfan is one of Britain's finest mountains and its ascent is a great personal achievement and, for most, a landmark in their fellwalking careers. For many people the North Ridge is their first scramble, and its ascent awakens within them a love for rock, ambitious situations, and that buzz that comes from pushing back your limits. This is the point where you make the irrevocable transition from hillwalker to mountaineer.
View from the summit
Looking over the South Peak towards Glyder Fach's Bristly Ridge
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Suggested continuations
The North Ridge
It is possible to go back down the way you came up, but if you are inexperienced or the weather is less than perfect consider using the path that contours around most of the more difficult sections. Seasoned scramblers will have no problems downclimbing most of the ridge proper. If the rock is greasy or icy, consider abseiling if necessary.
The South Ridge
Tryfan's gentler South Ridge makes a good descent to the col of Bwlch Tryfan. The ridge consists of avoidable steps, some slightly overhanging but generally easy. If aiming for Bristly Ridge, make sure you stick to the crest of the ridge to avoid ending up in Cwm Tryfan or Cwm Bochlwyd: navigation isn't a problem here in clear conditions, but if clagged in it's easy to get lost.
Cwm Bochlwyd
A "path" sticks to the west side of the South Ridge and cuts down towards Cwm Bochlwyd. This is the route most walkers use to reach the summit from Idwal Cottage. There are a couple of very easy steps but largely it consists of boulders and loose, steep scree. It's unpleasant but relatively uncomplicated, and if you're in dire need of refreshment it provides a quick way down to Idwal Cottage, where a small shop will provide you with as much Lucozade and ice cream as you could wish for.
Cwm Tryfan
If aiming for Gwern Gof Uchaf and want to take a scenic, gentle and quiet back down, use the South Ridge as far as Bwlch Tryfan then turn left into the valley of Cwm Tryfan. This easy path emerges near the back of Tryfan Bach.
When you get back down, just turn back and take a look at the mountain you've climbed, and watch your ego shoot through the roof!
Tryfan: finest pseudo-Alpine peak in Wales
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Map images produced from the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map service. Images reproduced with kind permission of Ordnance Survey and Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland.
