Go back to trip report
Back to Saturday
Sunday, 5th of February
We woke at 7 AM, but rumour has it that a team of the climbers had left the bunkhouse four hours earlier to get the maximum amount of daylight in. Breakfast was bacon butties that morning. It took an age to get breakfast ready because the climbers were clogging up the tiny kitchen. We eventually got on the road at about 8:30.
When we reached the Ranger Station, we could see that the weather had deteriorated somewhat overnight. Cloud shrouded the mountain, there was an icy breeze blowing in from the north, and some more of the snow had melted.
Our walk-in followed much the same route that we took the previous day, only breaking away from the main ski-run when we gained the bowl of Coire Cas. Our destination was higher this time: a steeper snowfield some way up the side of the mountain, at approximately the same altitude as the deep pack near the rear wall of the corrie.
The final part of the walk-in, as we left the ski-runs and crossed the frozen wasteland, was fun. By this point it was starting to get really cold: on top of the effect of altitude (we were at just under 3,000 feet), there was also a freezing wind which was depositing rime ice on every available surface. Howard judged the windchill to be at around -6 to -10 Celsius.
Trekking through the wilderness of Cairn Gorm
Rime ice forms on the grass. It was growing right before our eyes.
Looking across to the steepening ground at the rear wall of the corrie
The snowfield we eventually reached was much larger than the small patch of snow we'd used on Saturday, and it was very deep: at least a metre in the centre of the pack, although near the top we discovered it to be only about 40 or 50 centimetres in depth. This snow was extremely hard, more like solid ice in quality, which as we later discovered is perfect for belaying.
We stopped for a break and got our gear ready. This time it was on with the crampons right from the start. We also put on harnesses and helmets and got the ropes at the ready for the belaying exercises later on. I also wore my fleece balaclava under the helmet: after ten minutes of sitting around in the wind, I was starting to freeze!
My Gore-tex mittens proved themselves to be more than worth the £40 I paid for them. The outer fabric is tough cordura, they have a warm Polartec lining, and best of all, the palm facing pattern is extremely grippy and does a good job of not slipping when handling rope.
Eating lunch. Yep, it's cold.
[Back to top]
Our first task for the day was to dig a bucket seat in the snow. This is a deep hole used as support when belaying down the fall-line of a slope. The trick is to dig it deep enough to ensure that, if the rope has to support a load, you will be pulled deeper into the hole rather than upwards and out. It's also a good idea to make ankle holes for additional support.
To test our bucket seats, each of us roped up and belayed while the rest of the group hauled on the end of the rope. We were using a method belaying with the rope around your waist and twisted around one arm, which then crosses across your chest to secure the rope. This method is painful but secure and doesn't need a harness. Throughout the day Howard emphasized many techniques which could be performed with nothing more than a rope, a sling and a karabiner.
Next we explored ways in which the rope could be directly belayed to the snow. The principle method is the snow bollard, in which you dig out a horseshoe-shaped trench. In my case I made it too far up the slope, so I hit a rock after digging down about two feet. This made the rope feed irregularly through the groove, and it's important for the action to be as smooth as possible.
Again, we all got on the end of the ropes and hauled away, but the bollards were utterly solid--there were no signs of the snow collapsing.
Soon the clouds began to clear, but the light was still grey and dull.
Looking back down the corrie
Lurcher's Crag is now visible
The weather continued to turn colder. Mindful of the fact that we had to be off the hill and on the road by 4:30 PM, we had a quick break then got back on the snow. Our next lesson was in belaying with ice axes. Both methods involve the shaft of the axe being plunged deep into the snow. You can then twist the rope around the shaft and your boot, thus creating a friction-based belay, or attach a krab to the head and attach the rope to that. Again, all of these methods are possible with minimal equipment.
The tools of our trade
Approaching the top of our snowfield
The group
[Back to top]
We then practiced a number of abseiling techniques, one of which is far more comfortable than the other! Like the other methods, they rely on the friction between your body and several tight bights of rope. It's possible to arrest a fall with a surprisingly gentle grip on the rope's tail.
Time was starting to run short, so Howard demonstrated the next technique without asking us to practice it ourselves. This is the buried ice-axe, and involves--you've guessed it--burying an ice axe in the snow to use as an anchor. Typically this will be used in a position above a bucket seat for a very secure belaying setup.
Our bucket seats and snow bollards
The obligatory ice axe shot
After packing up our gear, we made a quick descent back down the mountain. Back in the car park Howard took back all of the loaned gear and made a brief speech emphasizing that the course had only just scratched the surface: in order to become proficient winter mountaineers we need practice. There are hints and rumours of another trip to Scotland sometime this winter, although I don't know if anything will come of it.
We all thanked Howard then left in the minibus. The drive-down from Scotland was long, but I slept through much of it, as did most people. I eventually got back to my flat at 3:30 AM, very tired ... but happy!
This is the Himalayan Explorer, signing out. See you on the flip side.
Go back to trip report
Back to Saturday
[Back to top]
