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Sunday, 20th of November
Some of us had hoped to do a cut-down version of the Crib Goch route today, and Colin had agreed to lead such a walk if he could find a B Walkleader to come with us. Unfortunately, none of the other leaders were able to do so. Colin ended up leading a route traversing the Lliwedd and Snowdon then descending the Pyg track--a hike he completed in lightning time!
Myself, Ian, and a few others (mostly from the previous day's group) joined Rachel on a less technical route up Snowdon. The original plan was to ascend via the Pyg track and come back down the Miner's track, but we ended up doing it the other way around. They are in any case very similar, and share the same path for most of the ascent.
The start of the Miner's track is well-constructed and largely flat as it encircles Llyn Llydaw as far as the old mine. The views onward towards our mighty objective are at once a challenge and an inspiration. It was nice to have a flat path for a mile or so, just to give us the chance to chat without getting out of breath!
On the miner's track
After you pass the ruins of the old mine, the path steepens and climbs to the high cwm of Glaslyn. From here the views of Snowdon are even more gigantic and detailed. Apart from the lack of snow, one could be forgiven for thinking that they'd suddenly been teleported to the Alps or Andes.
Um, which one's Everest?
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The climb begins in earnest at the bottom of a spoil heap. Although the path is well-stepped (I wonder if Fix the Fells operates in Wales?), it is very steep, and due to a complete lack of technical interest, rather tiring. I relinquished my usual place near the front of the group and began to lag behind. (Actually, this may have been due to Porridge Withdrawal Symptoms. See Porridge Is Everything. -Alex) The day was surprisingly warm, and since all my water is in a bottle strapped to my bag, I could only drink when we stopped for a rest. I'll be using a Platypus on future fell club trips, I think!
Looking down the Miner's track
After fifteen or twenty minutes of toil, we suddenly emerged on the broad highway of the Pyg track (the last part of it, anyway). We rested for a while, enjoying the view back to Moel Siabod and the fells behind Capel Curig. Rachel proved to be an absolute star: most of the space in her backpack was taken up by enormous supplies of spare food and water which was liberally handed out to everyone in the group.
The view over Llyn Llydaw to Moel Siabod
Y Lliwedd: spiky stuff!
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The last stretch of the Pyg track is about a quarter of a mile in length, reasonably steep, but zigzagged to reduce the gradient. The path is in any case very good, despite a few iced-up rocky steps. We made reasonable time to the summit of the Pyg track, where a standing stone marks the ridge point.
Looking back along the ridge
Moel Hebog over the tracks
The views of the Eifionedd (Mynydd Drws-y-Coed, Mynydd Mawr etc) and Moel Hebog suddenly hit you when you look to the west. There is a sense of enormous depth to the view from this point, which is after all at 998 metres above sea level ... that's twenty metres higher than Scafell Pike!
On the ridge
The summit, eighty-seven metres above us, was still shrouded in cloud at this point, so we decided to stick around on the ridge for a while in case the view was hidden from the summit. I think there was a great sense of achievement among the whole group in having got even this far. The sun is shining, the view is spectacular, there's a sprinkling of snow underfoot, and the proud spike of the summit is just ahead ... that's what great days on the hill are made of.
Me trying to do one of those heroic poses. Nice blue sky, though.
Looking over the South Ridge
It must be rush hour
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Surrounded by many other fellwalkers, we made the final push to the summit, constantly pausing to take pictures. When you reach the flat area of ground above the cafe, there is a large and well-built cairn with a spiral staircase leading to the highest point. At the very top is mounted a triangulation column marked with bearing lines pointing towards prominent landmarks.
It was pretty crammed on the summit, but I managed to get a couple of photos of the group.
On the summit 1
On the summit 2
Looking back to the summit: wow!
After taking our photos and giving ourselves a big pat on the back, we started back down again, keen to get back before dark this time. We used the Pyg track in its entirety for the descent, which is longer but gentler, and reached the minibus at Pen y Pass by ten past three.
The Pyg track
Ian and Rachel with Snowdon in the background
Climbing Snowdon wasn't quite what I had expected. I had heard many tales of the "industrialised" Snowdon and how clinically-reconstructed paths, railway and cafe, and millions of tourists detract from the experience. Having finally climbed Snowdon for myself, I can say that I honestly don't see that point of view. A shabby cafe and rail track don't take anything away from the majesty of this grand mountain, nor lessen the sense of achievement in reaching the highest peak in England and Wales. And as for lots of people ... well, they're all up there sharing the experience with you.
The verdict: cafe or no, Snowdon rocks!
A perfect end to a perfect day
Thanks go once again to Rachel, for organising the day's walk and doing such a great job, Ian for being full of fascinating topics of conversation, and everyone else who came along!
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