
From Three Tarns: the Pike's best side
I climbed Scafell Pike in late May 2005, starting from the small campsite at Wasdale Head. The day was pleasantly warm but not too hot, and there wasn't a cloud to be seen in the sky--a welcome contrast to the appalling weather I had encountered almost two weeks previously at Coniston.
Determined to enjoy my last climb in the Wasdale area, I immediately decided against using the Brown Tongue tourist track to reach the summit. I wanted this hike to be special. I knew of the Corridor, a fairly easy route cutting across the flanks of Great End and the three Pikes of the Scafell massif, and after consulting the map came to the conclusion that this would be the best route for me. It was long, it was scenic, and quieter than the main paths: what more could one ask for?
I thoroughly enjoyed this solitary climb as far as the Lingmell Col, where I turned off to climb Lingmell itself, which has a fine view and a good summit. After I returned to the col, however, I saw crowds of tourists plodding over the rocks in a steady stream. It was now midday, and the huge stony lump of the Pike looked unwelcoming given I still had over 200m left to climb. But this was what I came to do, and I set off.
The final half-hour of ascent to the top was not what I had imagined. The path was eroded (although, to be fair, I have seen many far worse), and there were too many people about for my liking. Tourists with cameras dangling from their necks, often wearing trainers and without a rucksack in sight, had draped themselves over every available boulder eating sandwiches and drinking tea. The summit itself was overrun with them and I couldn't even get near the cairn. There were probably around 200 people on the top that afternoon.
This may sound like heresy, but I don't really like Scafell Pike. The Corridor is a first-class route, but the mountain itself is really little more than a huge lump of stones with a decent--but not excellent--view. Many hills of lower altitude are more satisfying climbs and have more presence as mountains.
There is, however, no denying that the aspect of Scafell Pike from Bowfell is superb, and admittedly it does look big from Great Gable. And surely the thousands of people who climb it every year can't be wrong ... ?
I have no photos from the Scafell Pike day because my camera had broken. Here, however, are some pictures of it from other angles.
 From Wastwater |
 From Great Gable |
 From Great Gable |
 From Red Pike |
 From Red Pike |
 From Crinkle Crags |