From Bowfell

In many ways, Scafell is superior to its bigger brother, Scafell Pike. They are very close together and quite similar from certain angles--in fact, it is a common mistake to think of Scafell as the highest mountain in England, not the Pike.

Why do I think Scafell is better? For one thing, its main cliff, Scafell Crag, is one of the biggest cliffs in the Lake District and a truly awe-inspiring sight, especially if you approach the mountain from the north. The climb is more technically demanding from all routes except the gentle moorland to the west. And the views from the top are, in my humble opinion, more beautiful.

I climbed Scafell straight after the Pike, being unwilling to hang around on the crowded top. The first stage is to descend to the high col of Mickledore, which is a fine ridge falling away in scree to the east and west. There are two options at this point: the steep climb of Lord's Rake, or a similar route on the other side of the cliff known as Fox's Tarn. Both entail a considerable descent and re-ascent to reach the summit. I chose Fox's Tarn because of the loose boulders in the Rake.

I somehow missed the path, and the twenty minutes I spent slithering down the unstable scree of Mickledore were some of the most nerve-wracking of my life. It's very steep ground, slimy with moisture dripping off the crag, and there's rotten rock everywhere. I would step on a boulder for support only to have it shatter damply from under me. I spent most of the descent on my backside.

When you reach the turnoff to Fox's Tarn, you're faced by the imposing Fox's Tarn Gully, a wet and steep crack leading up the side of the cliff. In those days before I knew I liked scrambling, this was terrifying, made worse by my own fatigue and the dampness of the rock. I met someone coming down who was terrified and wished he'd used Lord's Rake, despite the danger of falling rocks. With hindsight, I was probably being more than a bit wet. If I could go back there now I'd probably enjoy it!

Eventually you reach the Tarn itself, a tiny puddle in the middle of a sharp hollow in the mountainside. All that now remains is to haul yourself up a steep scree-slope to a saddle between Scafell Pinnacle and the summit. Turn left up a gentle slope, and soon you'll be within sight of the cairn and shelters.

The view is stunning in all directions, although I didn't get to see much of it due to the weather that was coming in from the north. The temperature dropped with shocking speed and within minutes I was sheltering from howling winds and a vicious hailstorm.

I chose to descend by way of the gentle moorland to the west, but there is no real path and you have to find your own way. By the time I got back to my tent at 6 PM, I was very tired ... but happy.

From Bowfell	From Three Tarns
From Illgill Head	From Pillar
From Pillar	From Mosedale