A pair of good quality, supportive boots are a must for anyone venturing into the mountains. The most important things to bear in mind are as follows:

1. Fit. This is the most important factor of all, because if your boots don't fit, they're useless! Try a pair on in the shop, walk around in them, try going up and down stairs. Adjust the lacing to make sure your foot's in the right position in the boot. Watch out for tight or loose spots, and make sure there's enough room in the toe-box to prevent bruising to your toes during steep descents.

2. Material. Boots come in two varieties: leather or fabric. Some modern fabric boots are excellent, and have the added advantage that they're easier to "break in". However for mountain use I would still opt for a high-quality, full grain leather boot. They need looking after if they're to last, but abrasion resistance and support is second to none. A single-piece upper with minimal stiching will be more water resistant.

3. Supportiveness. For mountain use, look for a relatively stiff boot with a good degree of ankle support. Bendier, lightweight footwear may be suitable for some routes, but for tougher ascents and rockier ground a good degree of support is essential.

4. Tread. A grippy sole is essential for mountain walking. A common test is to check if the lugs are at least twice the depth of a pound coin's thickness, and at least the same distance between them (to prevent clogging with mud). Vibram soles are excellent, as are EVAlution and REVAlution, although the latter two wear down quicker.

5. Waterproofness. It's not essential to buy a boot with a waterproof liner such as Gore-Tex, but it is essential to make sure your boot is kept waterproof with the appropriate re-proofing product. Nikwax and Grangers both make excellent products for this purpose. For leather boots I would recommend the basic cans of Nikwax-in-a-tin sold by Cotswold.

My personal recommendations

BRASHER
Hillmaster Classic GTX (approx £100)

See my comments in Ten Items of Gear I Rely On for more information.

SCARPA
SL-M3 (approx £150)

Superb 3-4 season leather boots, compatible with flexible walking crampons (shown in the picture to the left) and suitable for winter use. They lack a waterproof lining, which means they need a little more care than the Hillmasters, but this also makes them more breathable and hence less sweaty. The SL is also suitable for general mountain use in all seasons, although I suspect they'd get pretty hot in summer: so far I've only used my SLs in winter. I am also dubious of their suitability for scrambling. A new model of SL has recently been introduced at a price of £155, which means you may be able to pick up old stock of the M3 model for a while at a bargain price. It's a lot of money for a pair of boots, but they're built to last!

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A decent waterproof coat not only makes hillwalking more comfortable, it's also vital for your survival should the weather turn foul. Here are the key things you need to know.

1. Breathability. Making fabric waterproof is easy. The hard part is developing a jacket which both repels water and allows water vapour from your body to escape. A typical cheap plastic mac will keep rain off, but you'll get soaked from your own condensation in no time at all. For mountain use, it is vital that you choose a high quality breathable jacket.

2. Fabric. There are many types of waterproof jacket fabric on the market, and it's easy to get confused or influenced by salespeople who may have no experience of the products in the real world. Gore-Tex is an established and trusted material--I can personally vouch for its effectiveness--but all fabrics have their limitations, and the performance of any jacket will deteriorate with heavy use. Ultimately, everyone must use their own judgement.

3. Weight. Lightweight fabrics are--obviously--lightweight and easier to pack, but wear out sooner and need more care. Heavier fabrics such as classic Gore-Tex or XCR are more suitable for heavy use, scrambling, or long backpacking trips. Most lightweights are however fine for occasional trips.

4. Features. The most important things to look for are a comfortable fit with good freedom of movement, a protective hood (preferably with a peak), useable pockets in positions you're comfortable with, and adjustable cuffs. A longer cut is better for general walking, whereas for scrambling or climbing you're more likely to want a waist-length jacket.

Waterproof trousers and gaiters are also important: trousers for keeping your legs dry, and gaiters to stop snow and water from getting into your boots. When choosing waterproof trousers, look for the same features as you would in jackets ... however for general use lightweight trousers or salopettes will do fine. High levels of breathability are also less crucial. I wouldn't recommend spending too much on waterproof trousers, because they wear out much faster than jackets!

My personal recommendations

MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT
Makalu (approx £160)

I've used this jacket on three trips so far, and it has proved superb. The fit is just right for me: close enough not to be baggy, but there's still enough room to get a few extra layers on underneath. I am particularly impressed by the hood, which is very protective, has a stiffened peak, and can take a helmet. The classic Gore-Tex fabric is stiff enough for winter use, completely waterproof, and breathable enough for my needs. An unusual feature of this jacket is the position of the pockets. There is a large map pocket under the main storm-flap, but the two main pockets are on either side of the chest, instead of the usual positions near the hips. This configuration is actually pretty useful, and has the added bonus of the waist adjustment cords being hidden away inside these pockets. Each pocket is big enough for a small guidebook (Scrambles in Snowdonia just about fits) or a generous stash of energy bars. Gore-Tex does, however, require care. Already my jacket is starting to show signs of wear, no doubt due to the scrambling and ice axe braking I've done while wearing it. The solution to this is easy: simply iron the jacket on a cool setting (not too hot or the seam tape will start to come off). This regenerates the Durable Water Repellency and makes sure water forms bead-shaped droplets on the surface, instead of soaking in. Water will still be kept back by the Gore-Tex membrane, but it is better to have a dry jacket and the end of the day than a wet one!

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Waterproofs aren't the only items of clothing which require careful thought. You should also consider the following:

1. Baselayer. Many people wear a simple cotton T-shirt under their jacket, but my experience has shown this to be a bad idea. Cotton soaks up sweat but doesn't release it again. Even if your jacket is breathable, the sweat has no way of escaping. Invest in a high-quality baselayer made from a material such as Coolmax or PowerDry. These garments actively transport moisture away from your body, allowing it to evaporate. Believe me, the difference is amazing!

2. Mid layer. In all seasons, it's important to have at least one warm mid-layer with you. In summer I often find it helpful to carry a couple of lightweight "micro-fleeces": these pack up small but are still warm. In winter you'll probably want at least one micro-fleece plus a heavier general use fleece, or maybe even a down or insulated jacket in really cold conditions.

3. Walking trousers. Go for trousers made from a synthetic, quick-drying material, with good freedom of movement (you should be able to get your knee up to your chin without restriction). Other features to look out for are stretchy fabric, lots of pockets, and a belt for support while scrambling. For winter, go for fleece trousers, or a pair of insulated and waterproof salopettes.

4. Socks. Choose the wrong socks and you could land yourself some painful blisters! There's a bewildering range of socks out there, but as a general guideline I'd take a look at Brasher's comprehensive range: they're expensive, but also comfortable, reliable and hard-wearing. Don't be tempted by the so-called 1000 mile brand. My pair wore out after about twenty miles, instead of the claimed thousand!

5. Gloves. Essential in all seasons. Choose lightweight, windproof gloves with a good grip for summer use; a waterproof coating is also useful. For winter, a thick overmit is essential, plus spares and a couple of pairs of thin liner gloves to wear underneath your main pair.

6. Headgear. A woolly or fleece hat should be packed in summer. I would also suggest a wide-brimmed, light coloured hat for sunny days. For winter, consider a heavy-duty waterproof hat such as the commonly-found "Mountain Cap" design. A balaclava is also extremely useful.

My personal recommendations

NORTH CAPE
Sandstorm Polo PowerDry (approx £32)

This is the finest baselayer I have ever used. Purchased in Coniston during the May 2005 expedition, I've worn it for virtually every hike since. That includes two hundred miles of mountain walking and almost five hundred in coastal Suffolk. Despite this heavy use beneath a backpack, visible wear to the fabric is slight, and it still works just as well as it did when I bought it. The fabric is constructed from two layers. Together, these layers mechanically "suck" moisture away from the skin and allow it to spread on the outer surface, a process which results in lightning-fast drying. The fabric is extremely breathable and also has a fair degree of sun-resistance. This baselayer is also very easy to care for. It never seems to stain and never smells ... not even after being worn continuously for three weeks in the Lakes! It should, however, be washed at a low temperature to avoid damaging the synthetic fibres. As far as disadvantages go, the big one is the scarcity of this product. So far I've only found two places which sell it in the UK: Laeking Outdoors in Coniston, and the Go Outdoors internet shop.

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Your choice of rucksack is just as important as boots or waterproof: all your spare kit relies on it!

1. Size. For general hillwalking use in the summer months, look for a capacity of between 25 and 35 litres. If you're likely to go into winter walking or light backpacking, a size of up to 45 or 50 litres is better. A good size for general backpacking is 65 litres, although backpacking 'sacks can be 100 litres or more ... this is however extremely heavy when full! All packs should have a quoted capacity in litres.

2. Design. Look for a 'sack with adjustable shoulder straps and a comfortable, adjustable hipbelt which fits you. A stabilising chest strap is useful in some situations but is not essential. More importantly, decide whether you would prefer a backpack with a zip or lid closure. Lid closure packs are generally easier to keep waterproof, and also commonly offer lid pockets.

3. Extras. A good pack will have collapsable side pockets for water bottles, ice axe loops, and possibly a bungee cord assembly on the front (this is useful for holding crampons or an extra layer). "Daisy Chains" (strips of fabric loops) are very useful for anchoring miscellaneous bits and pieces such as emergency beacons, GPS sets, and climbing gear. Compression straps increase versatility, allowing you to reduce the volume of the 'sack and increase stability, and also to secure long objects such as trekking poles.

4. Waterproofness. Few packs are made from waterproof material, although a few models are starting to come on the model which claim to be waterproof. Invest in a waterproof liner for your sack: they come in a variety of sizes and won't cost more than three or four pounds. This is vital to prevent your spare clothing from becoming waterlogged. If you store essential kit in external pockets, use plastic sandwich bags to keep the items dry. A better long-term solution is a small sealable drybag.

My personal recommendations

THE NORTH FACE
Terra 35 (approx £60)

Reckoned to be the best pack for UK walkers by TRAIL magazine in 2005, I've found the Terra 35 to be perfect for year-round mountaineering. I tested it in October 2005 during a day of foul weather in Langdale, and was impressed by the levels of comfort and support. This pack is made from a form of ripstop fabric which is water resistant but not waterproof. It becomes waterlogged in heavy rain and takes some time to dry, making a rucksack liner all the more essential, as I discovered when the spare batteries in my lid pocket began to leak! The lid pocket itself has a capacity of several litres, and I use it to store all manner of items, from spare crampon parts to my headtorch. The pack's main body consists of one large compartment, closed by a drawcord and the lid, which is secured by two plastic buckles. Useful extra features are everywhere: mesh side pockets, bellows side pockets, compression straps, daisy chains, and a bungee cord system. These may sound like gimmicks, but believe me I appreciate them on the hill. In the picture to the left you can see a map and pair of gloves held in place by the bungee, water bottles in the mesh pockets, plus a number of small items hanging from the daisy chain.

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Before venturing into the mountains, you must be comfortable using a map and compass: for more information see Essential Knowledge.

1. Maps. Walkers in the UK are lucky to have a large range of excellent mapping to choose from. The Ordnance Survey still produce the best all-round maps, although Harvey sell a line of specialised walker's maps which are well worth a look, particularly their detailed summit maps of favourite mountains. The best scale to go for is 1:25,000 for normal mountain use, or 1:50,000 for wide area coverage. You should make sure you have all the maps you need before setting off; however it is often said that it's easier to buy a map in the Lake District than it is to buy a toilet roll!

2. Compass. The best sort for accurate navigation is the baseplate compass. They can be bought inexpensively for as little as £5, but for long-term serious use go for a better quality model. My choice would be the renowed Silva Type 4.

3. GPS handset. A form of electronic navigation which has many benefits, GPS units can be bought from around £80. They can give you your exact position, display a map of your route, calculate altitude, and a range of other useful functions. However, GPS should never be relied on as your primary means of navigation, because they need both a good signal and fresh batteries.

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No matter what measures you take to ensure your safety, things can always go wrong in the mountains. Here are some essential emergency items which every hillwalker should have.

1. Survival bag. Essential: this orange polythene bag may save your life if you're forced to spend a night on the mountain. They're unpleasant to sleep in because you get soaked from condensation, but they keep the wind and rain off, and also offer a surprising amount of warmth. At an average price of £3 you have no excuse not to have one of these in your pack at all times! Do NOT be tempted by so-called "space blankets". They may have limited value in some situations but are useless on a windswept hillside.

2. First Aid Kit. Another essential item. Choose a small pack containing a few basic items, such as plasters, a bandage, safety pins, antisceptic wipes, and spare water purification tablets. I also keep my crampon repair kit and a penknife in mine. If you're walking in a group, the leader should have a larger and more comprehensive first aid kit.

3. Whistle. Every walker MUST carry a whistle. In the event of an emergency it can be used to attract attention or signal in morse code (the international emergency signals will probably be printed on your survival bag).

4. Spare torch. Buy a small, lightweight torch with a strong beam, and keep it with fresh batteries in your pack at all times. Use it as a signalling aid in case of emergency.

5. Mobile phone. Not an essential item, but useful to call for help if the circumstances warrant it. You should not rely on a mobile to get you out of trouble. Signal in mountainous areas is usually patchy or non-existant.

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Here are a few miscellaneous items which should be carried in every walker's pack.

1. Water bottle. You lose a lot of water when walking uphill, so carry at least one water bottle with you. Aim for a capacity of about 2 litres in winter, or at least 3 in summer. This is heavy to carry, but it's better than running out of water on the summit and realising it'll be hours before you reach the nearest stream! Flexible hydration systems such as the Platypus allow you to drink hands-free.

2. Headtorch. Essential all year round, although more of an emergency item in summer. Go for a lightweight model powered by superbright LEDs: the torch will be more expensive, but battery life is commonly in the range of 60 - 120 hours! LEDs have the added advantage that they never need replacing.

3. Trekking poles. Some people love them, some people hate them ... I use two when backpacking as they take a lot of weight off your legs, but for general mountain use I find one to be sufficient. A trekking pole is an important balancing aid on boulder fields, scree slopes etc.

4. Camera, with spare batteries and memory card. Because the mountains are beautiful!

5. Vaselene and / or Compeeds. Vital for blister-prone walkers. Vaselene soothes blisters, and Compeed patches allegedly cure them altogether, although I've never tried them.

6. Water purification. I always carry an inexpensive tub of chlorine purification tablets with me, in case I need to top up on water during the day. It is sometimes possible to drink water directly from streams without any ill effects, but you never know if there's a dead sheep in the water just out of sight ... if in doubt, don't drink it, or boil it first. Chlorine won't kill all water-borne organisms.

7. Ice axe and crampons. Essential safety aids for winter mountaineering, but make sure you know how to use them first! See the section below.

8. Scrambling gear. If you intend to do any scrambling, a helmet is always advised: all it takes is a falling rock to knock you off balance or worse. For harder routes up to Grade 3, consider a rope and basic climbing rack. Make sure you receive instruction on how to use the gear from experienced persons.

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All trips to the mountains should be planned in advance. Buy a map of the area and study it extensively--the more of the map you know, the better you'll be at navigating when you get there. Buy a guidebook and use it in conjunction with the map to plan likely routes. For the Lake District, Alfred Wainwright's series of pictorial guides are still the best, despite a growing list of inaccuracies; an effort is currently underway to bring them up to date.

Use the internet to search for pictures of the area you'll be visiting, or maybe suggested walks. Many of the pages listed in the sidebar offer excellent resources for planning fellwalking trips. There's also a fair amount of information in the mountain files on this site.

You should also prepare yourself physically. Fellwalking is hard work. If you're not used to hiking, get in the habit of briskly walking a couple of miles several times a week--you'll be surprised at the difference it makes. Remember that the best preparation for walking up steep slopes with a backpack is to walk up steep slopes with a backpack!

There are a number of essential skills that any fellwalker should have. You must be able to use a map and compass. This includes taking bearings, following bearings, finding your position, adjusting for magnetic declination, measuring distances, and the knowledge of techniques such as bearing off and contouring. These skills take time and patience to learn, so either go on a navigation course, read a book on the subject and practice for yourself on easy terrain, or ask an experienced friend to help you.

It's easy for even the most experienced navigator to get lost in the mountains, and navigational error is the single biggest cause for mountain rescue callouts in the UK. Complex places such as the Crinkle Crags and Esk Hause can be a nightmare for beginners. So make sure you're comfortable with a map and compass before setting out!

If you're planning to do any winter mountaineering, it's vital that you learn the necessary skills. These can be learnt from a book or video but I think they are best taught from an experienced instructor. Winter skills courses are offered by mountaineering centres such as Rheged, Plas-y-Brenin and Glenmore Lodge. They're informative and a lot of fun!

It is easy to misjudge how long an ascent will take. Naismith's Rule is commonly quoted as a means of working out time given a certain distance and ascent, but this is too often unreliable. As a general guide, the big, hard mountains will take several hours to climb, and if you're planning to do a ridge walk, it is advisable to allow a whole day for your expedition. Always leave details of your route and expected time of arrival with a reliable person. Many campsites, youth hostels and hotels have a book where you can enter details of your route; if you don't sign in by the end of the day, mountain rescue is alerted.

Learn to predict the weather, and always check the mountain weather forecast the evening and morning before your walk. Mountain weather can be vicious and changes rapidly, so be prepared to cut the route short and retreat at any time. Wind can be particularly dangerous if you're crossing exposed or slippery ground. And prolonged rain (it often rains for days or weeks at a time in the Lakes or Wales) can make the becks run in spate, blocking fords and making progress difficult.

Finally, experience will teach you far more than any article or guidebook can. The best way to learn about fellwalking is to get out there and do it: find your own techniques, discover what combinations of gear work for you, and learn from your mistakes. Above all, the ascent of any mountain is a serious proposition and should not be underestimated. Respect the mountains, make sure you're well prepared, and you will have a safe and enjoyable time!

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